Icelandic Winter Chronicles: Part 4 – Solitude on the Road to Akureyri, Icelandic Horses, and Kolugjúfur Legends
With much of the Northwest region mostly inaccessible in winter, we decided to embark on a six-hour drive to Akureyri, Iceland’s second-largest city. It was a long haul, but the journey was nothing short of breathtaking.
For about an hour, we didn’t see another car or even a human being. It felt as though we were the last people left in an ice-covered world, driving through a frozen wilderness. Maybe it was Boxing Day or just the harsh weather, but whatever the reason, it felt like Iceland had been reserved just for us.
Our first stop on the way to Akureyri was Kolugjúfur, a spectacular river canyon nestled in the northwest, near the town of Víðidalur. The frozen cliffs and waterfalls, shaped by the Víðidalsá River, were a reminder of Iceland’s raw beauty, even in the depths of winter. But what made Kolugjúfur even more special was its folklore. According to legend, the canyon was named after Kola, a giantess who lived there, creating the gorge herself and fishing in the river to feed her monstrous appetite. It’s hard not to feel a bit of that ancient mystery when you stand in a place like that, even when everything is locked in ice.
Continuing our journey, we had another unexpected delight: a herd of Icelandic horses. These horses are not just hardy—they’re practically mythic. Standing strong against the bitter cold, they seem perfectly at home in Iceland’s harsh winter landscape. Their thick, double-layered coats protect them from freezing temperatures, and their bloodline has been preserved for over 1,000 years, untouched by crossbreeding. Icelandic horses are famous for their friendly, gentle nature and their unique gaits, like the smooth “tölt.” As we drove past, I couldn’t help but marvel at their resilience and beauty. You can spot an Icelandic horse from miles away—they are distinct, strong, and unlike any other breed.
Oddly enough, one of the highlights of our day was a stop at a gas station. And not just for gas, but for a hot dog. Yes, hot dogs in Iceland are a thing. I know it sounds odd, but they’re something of a national treasure here. My Icelandic friend had told me about them, but I was skeptical at first. Then I took a bite—and instantly understood the hype. Icelandic hot dogs are made from a blend of lamb, pork, and beef, and there’s something about the crunchy onions, mustard, and remoulade sauce that makes them incredibly addictive. I had three, and that’s saying something!
By the time we reached Akureyri in the evening, we were ready to relax. Our apartment (, located right in the heart of the downtown area, was cozy and perfect for winding down after a long day on the road. Iceland’s accommodations, outside of Reykjavik, are often cottages or apartments rather than traditional hotels. You book online, receive a code for a key box, and let yourself in—it’s essentially like Airbnb. While it felt a bit odd not having a receptionist or check-in process, it worked perfectly fine.
After settling in, we headed out for a much-needed stretch and some fun in the snow. After a hearty meal at Centrum Kitchen, we found ourselves snow-sliding down the hilly, snow-covered streets of Akureyri. It was the perfect way to end the day—pure winter magic, rolling around in the snow under a crisp, starry sky.
