Icelandic Winter Chronicles: Part 7 – Glacial Paths, Icelandic Horses, and a Dance of Northern Lights
The sky was clear when we woke up, giving me the feeling that today would be a good one. We set out from Laugarbakki at 7 a.m., cruising along Þjóðvegur 1 (Route 1), Iceland’s famous ring road. This route circles the country, making navigation easy even in winter. Our destination today was Húsafell.
Húsafell is a secluded gem in western Iceland, tucked among glaciers, lava fields, and peaceful woodlands. Known for its geothermal pools, waterfalls, and easy access to the Langjökull glacier, Húsafell is a go-to for nature lovers seeking adventure, relaxation, or both.
Originally, we’d planned to visit the world’s largest man-made ice tunnel near Langjökull. Unfortunately, an ongoing storm had blocked the road to the Langjökull Klaki Basecamp, cutting off access. Although we were disappointed, we half-expected it. Given the severity of Iceland’s recent snowstorms, we were just grateful to continue exploring. No crowds, landscapes blanketed in deep snow—sometimes, missed plans can lead to unique experiences.
It was yet another freezing day, with the car’s thermometer reading -23°C (-9.4°F). A check on my phone for Kleppjárnsreykir showed a similar temperature, perhaps even warmer than the actual chill with wind. As we drove toward Húsafell, I found myself wondering if any locals or wildlife were out braving this icy landscape.
Then we spotted a group of Icelandic horses and a barn nearby—our unplanned discovery of Sturlureykir Horse Farm! Near Krauma Spa, where we’d been the other day, this farm was perfect for seeing Icelandic horses up close. Here, visitors can learn about these remarkable animals’ history and role in Iceland. Like many Icelandic businesses, the farm uses geothermal energy, which you can see steaming from the ground—a testament to Icelanders’ ingenuity.
Our arrival at Hotel Húsafell felt like a reward. This modern hotel offers family-friendly activities and an inviting restaurant, where we were greeted with warm hospitality. After mentioning our ice tunnel plans had fallen through, the guest service team offered an alternative: a shuttle to Húsafell Canyon Baths, where we could still enjoy the geothermal experience.
Once there, a short walk through snow-covered trails led us to natural hot springs. The temperature was well below -20°C, and the unheated changing room required some serious bravery. But we quickly swapped our clothes for swimsuits, took a running leap, and—splash!—into the steaming water. Bliss. Just as we were beginning to relax, the northern lights began to dance across the sky. Just us, an outdoor hot spring, and the aurora borealis above—it was an experience we’ll never forget.
Afterward, we returned to the hotel for a meal. The Icelandic cuisine was superb and almost too pretty to eat. There was even a Totoro printed on the menu! Iceland may be home to trolls, but perhaps it hosts Totoro too?
As we settled back in our room, the front desk called to say the northern lights were active again. Surprisingly, the lights aren’t always visible to the naked eye; they often require a camera. But tonight, the signal was strong, and we watched the green glow without a lens in sight. Mission accomplished! One perk of staying at this hotel: the staff calls when the northern lights make an appearance, so guests never miss a sighting. But we didn’t linger too long; tomorrow is New Year’s Eve, and it promises to be another long, exciting day.
