Icelandic Winter Chronicles: Part 2 – Christmas Eve Calm, Waterfalls, and Geothermal Comfort
On Christmas Eve, we woke up late after yesterday’s long, eventful day. No rush, though—being in Iceland’s winter wonderland meant waiting until around 11 AM for the sun to rise anyway. When we finally stepped outside, the gusts and snow had calmed, leaving us with a gorgeous pinkish sky over our cottage.
To our surprise, there was a mountain behind the cottage that we hadn’t even noticed in the dark the night before. It may have been a short stay, but we definitely soaked in the beauty of the place.
Hopping back on Þjóðvegur 1 (Route 1), we headed towards Vik again to see if the road was now passable. The scenery along the way was so stunning that we found ourselves stopping the car every few minutes to snap photos—or sometimes just to sit and take in the serene views. That’s the magic of an Icelandic road trip. You don’t need to search for "must-see" spots on a map—breathtaking, unmarked views pop up around every bend. These unexpected, random encounters are what truly make the journey special.
But, of course, Icelandic winter has its challenges. At one point, our car got stuck in the snow while crossing a bridge. No matter what we did—forward, backward, steering like mad—the tires just kept spinning. Luckily, a few helpful passersby joined in to help shovel us out, and after about 20 minutes, we managed to free the car.
At the end of the street, we ran into a monster truck (seriously, it looked like something out of an action movie!) coming from Vik. The driver kindly informed us that not even a high-clearance SUV could make it through the snow ahead, and with no snowplows expected on Christmas Eve, we had no choice but to give up on our plans to head east. So, we turned back west instead.
Our first stop of the day was Seljalandsfoss Waterfall. As we veered off the main road, the snow got deeper, and the winds were relentless—like being in the middle of a typhoon. Southern Iceland is notorious for its winds in winter, and we got the full experience. We didn’t stay as long as we would’ve liked because the icy blasts were just too intense, but we still spent over an hour exploring the area. I’m already thinking of a return trip in summer to really soak it in without battling the elements.
After another hour of driving west, we arrived at tonight’s destination: Frost & Fire Boutique Hotel in Hveragerði. Iceland is famous for its geothermal energy, and this hotel proudly taps into it. Thanks to Iceland’s location on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, the country harnesses geothermal power for heating and electricity. Over 90% of homes here use geothermal energy, and this eco-friendly hotel was no different. There was steam rising from various spots around the property, a visible reminder of the power beneath the ground.
After barely eating in the past 24 hours, we were starving—especially for some Icelandic cuisine. Hunger truly is the best spice, and while we snacked all day to hold us over, we finally hit the point where we needed a real meal. After exploring a few local restaurants, we decided on Restaurant Varma, a cozy spot with great ambiance overlooking a warm river. It was the perfect place to settle in and satisfy our appetites.
And where there’s geothermal energy, there’s usually a hot spring nearby. Sure enough, the hotel had outdoor tubs heated by natural geothermal warmth. This was exactly what I’d been waiting for. It was still freezing outside—around -20°C (-4°F)—but the water was perfect. Relaxing in the steamy tub under the night sky was a dream. To top it off, I saw two shooting stars streak across the sky. If that’s not a sign of good things to come, I don’t know what is.
