Icelandic Winter Chronicles: Part 10 - Into the Lava Lands
Today is effectively our last day in Iceland, as we’ll be flying out tomorrow. That means today had to be action-packed, and we were determined to keep going until we couldn’t! I chose “lava” as the theme of the day—because what better way to spend the final day in the land of fire and ice than by diving into the “fire” part?
Our first stop of the day was the lava tunnel Raufarhólshellir in Þrengslavegur. Our tour was at 10 a.m., but with the late winter sunrise, it was still dark when we arrived. Raufarhólshellir is one of Iceland’s largest and most accessible lava tunnels, stretching over 1,300 meters and formed by an eruption around 5,200 years ago. Just a 30-minute drive from Reykjavik, the tunnel offers an incredible look at Iceland’s volcanic history, with vibrant rock formations and even natural ice sculptures in winter. The dramatic lighting along the multi-colored walls enhances the otherworldly experience.
Wearing helmets with flashlights, we cautiously followed our guide into the cave, moving carefully down the snowy trail, often holding hands to avoid slipping. Inside, we were captivated by the ice sculptures and the eerie calmness of the dark, colorful chambers. At the tunnel’s deepest accessible point, we turned off our flashlights and stood in complete silence to experience the deep stillness of the cave—an experience as close to being in nature’s core as I’ve ever felt. Although I’ve visited many caves, this was my first lava cave, and it felt extraordinary.
When we emerged, the sun had finally risen, and we set off on an hour’s drive to our next lava-themed stop, the LAVA Centre in Hvolsvöllur. This interactive museum, dedicated to Iceland’s volcanic and seismic activity, is anything but a traditional learning space. Instead of just displays and information boards, you walk through simulations and 3D exhibits that show you exactly how Iceland’s volcanic forces work. From realistic eruption simulations to tremor experiences, the center makes Iceland’s geology thrilling and accessible for visitors of all ages. The observation deck also offers amazing views of nearby volcanoes, making it a wonderful stop for anyone interested in the science behind Iceland’s dramatic landscape. My kids loved the hands-on experience, pressing buttons and exploring every corner of the center, and they seemed to absorb Iceland’s geology in the best way possible—by seeing it in action.
To close out our “lava day,” we made our way back to Reykjavik for the Lava Show, the only live lava experience in the world. Originally, we had booked this show for Christmas Day in Vik, but snowstorms kept us from making the trip, so we rebooked in Reykjavik. Fortunately, the show operator was understanding and refunded us, despite the last-minute cancellation. This unique show heats real lava to over 1,100°C (2,000°F) and pours it onto ice, creating a spectacular steam explosion and a cooling process that mimics natural lava flows. Watching the lava shift from a glowing, liquid state to solid rock was mesmerizing, and the host provided fascinating commentary on Iceland’s volcanic history and the science behind lava flows. It was a thrilling yet safe way to witness the power of Iceland’s geology up close, and the kids loved the experience of seeing actual molten rock without the danger of an active volcano.
For our final Icelandic dinner, we went to 3 Frakkar, or "Three Coats," a cozy, iconic restaurant in the heart of downtown Reykjavik. Known for its traditional Icelandic fare, it offers unique dishes like fermented shark, puffin, horse, and whale—foods you won’t find just anywhere, even in Iceland! Since 1989, this homey spot has been serving up flavors that reflect Iceland’s fishing and hunting heritage, and we were excited to try dishes that brought us even closer to Icelandic culture. For any traveler wanting an authentic taste of Iceland, 3 Frakkar is a must-visit.
This dinner wrapped up our memorable 11-day Icelandic adventure. Although we still had packing to do for tomorrow’s flight, we savored our last night with stories of our favorite moments—from the ice caves to lava flows and beyond. Iceland, we will be back! Hopefully, next time, we’ll explore it all in the warmth of summer.
