Costa Rican Road Trip Episode 1: From San José to Arenal, the Journey is Just the Beginning
Today is the first day of our two-week road trip across Costa Rica, one of the few destinations open to travelers even as many countries still imposed strict COVID-19 restrictions. With all the necessary paperwork prepared, entering Costa Rica was refreshingly smooth. By early afternoon, we landed at Juan Santamaría International Airport, collected our luggage, and headed straight to the car rental office, ready to hit the road.
Our vehicle for this journey was a Mitsubishi ASX, a compact SUV that, while popular on Costa Rican roads, revealed some limitations on rugged terrain. Costa Rica's steep hills and pothole-laden gravel paths challenged the ASX’s traction and clearance, and I quickly learned that a true full-size SUV would have provided more peace of mind, especially on the rougher routes. So, if you plan on visiting remote areas or traveling during the rainy season, a more powerful 4x4 with better clearance is highly recommended.
Dollar Rental provided decent service overall. They thoroughly explained the charges and gave a helpful rundown on Costa Rican traffic rules, as well as a free map. One minor hiccup: Dollar didn’t have a dedicated shuttle, so we had to catch an airport shuttle at our expense. Still, the experience was positive—until the final bill.
Despite a seemingly affordable online quote, the final rental charge was nearly double due to mandatory insurance and various surcharges. The base rate for the Mitsubishi ASX was $267.94 for the week, but our total, with additional insurance and fees, came to $1,288.04. Many Costa Rican rental companies require full coverage, refusing credit card insurance or personal policies from overseas. Travelers who anticipate low rates may be surprised, as this comprehensive coverage is often non-negotiable. While some savvy travelers manage to negotiate, it’s generally safer to budget for the higher total cost.
With the car sorted, we loaded up our bags and set out toward La Fortuna, our first destination. As the capital and largest city, San Jose was bustling, but as we left its limits, the road opened up, and traffic thinned.
Located about 120 kilometers north of San Jose, La Fortuna is famed for its hot springs, trails, and the iconic Arenal Volcano. I first visited the area a decade ago as a backpacker, and though I was now in a rental car instead of a bus, the journey still took nearly four hours, as most Costa Rican highways are two lanes, and many bridges are single-lane, requiring drivers to yield. Yet the drive, with its mountain views and glimpses of the countryside, reminded us why this area is considered one of Costa Rica's most enchanting destinations.
Halfway there, we stopped for a bite at a local “soda,” a small, family-run restaurant that served a surprisingly filling and flavorful meal for just $5–$10. With a full plate, fresh juice, and a small dessert, these roadside spots offer the most authentic, delicious, and budget-friendly Costa Rican food you can find—far more enjoyable than pricier resort fare.
As we arrived in La Fortuna at sunset, the town’s famed volcano cast its shadow over us. We checked in at the Volcano Lodge, a retreat complete with private outdoor hot springs. The lodge had a range of options: a “hot” spring area, several lukewarm pools for longer soaks, and a sauna, all surrounded by lush vegetation. With only a few other guests around, it felt like we had our own private paradise—a perfect end to a long travel day. We soaked, sipped drinks from the hot spring bar, and prepared for the exciting days ahead exploring Costa Rica’s natural wonders.
