Costa Rican Road Trip Episode 3: Soaking in Thermal Rivers and Riding Horses in La Fortuna
One of Costa Rica’s best features is its consistent, warm climate year-round. While humidity varies from the lush, rainy “green season” to the drier months, the temperature stays pretty stable, meaning it's always the perfect weather to explore Costa Rica's beaches, forests, and natural hot springs. The temperature can feel different depending on the altitude and the microclimate of each region, but overall, Costa Rica’s warm weather makes it a haven for outdoor adventures every day of the year.
After an early breakfast, we started our day at Tabacon Thermal Resort & Spa. With such a bounty of fresh fruit on offer, breakfasts here are deliciously healthy, and social distancing is a breeze when you begin your day at dawn! Outside, the pools were already steamy, naturally warmed by the thermal river—a rare feature that makes Tabacon a special place.
After breakfast, we changed into our swimsuits and headed back to the shuttle for another soak in Tabacon’s thermal pools. The moment you step into the pool area, you’re greeted by a unique sight: a river heated by the magma of nearby Arenal Volcano. This isn’t just an ordinary hot spring with a few pools; it’s an actual river, which flows across the property, with water temperatures ranging between 72 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit. Every minute, thousands of gallons of mineral-rich water flow through the pools and streams here, creating a refreshing and invigorating natural spa.
Exploring Tabacon’s pools is like going on a treasure hunt for the best spot. Some pools are tucked away and more secluded, while others are larger and have deeper sections for swimming. If you want warmer water, you can simply follow the river upstream—the closer to the source, the hotter it gets.
Some pools are surprisingly deep, so if you’re visiting with children, it’s a good idea to keep an eye on them, especially in the areas where you can’t stand up. Concerned about safety, I brought nose clips for my kids after hearing stories about amoebas found in warm waters. However, the clips didn’t stay on for long, as my kids found them uncomfortable, and we ended up just sticking to areas where they could mostly keep their heads above water. With the constant flow of clean mineral water, Tabacon’s natural setup feels incredibly refreshing.
Tabacon was just as impressive as I remembered it from a decade ago. If someone asked me for the best hot springs worldwide, Tabacon in Costa Rica, along with the baths of Japan and Iceland, would definitely make my top three. The combination of stunning scenery, warm mineral water, and lush jungle surroundings makes it unforgettable.
After soaking up the warmth, we set off toward Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park for some horseback riding. Located near La Fortuna, Mistico offers a great chance to experience Costa Rica’s natural beauty from the back of a horse. My last visit here was cloudy and misty, with only glimpses of Arenal Volcano, but this time we were lucky to have clear skies.
Booking a horseback ride at Mistico is straightforward, but it’s best to reserve in advance. Costa Rica’s winding roads can turn a short drive into a longer journey, so getting an early start is always smart. When we reached the trail, it took over an hour to climb to the top, where we were rewarded with stunning views of the surrounding landscape. The trail was muddy in places from recent rain, and at times, it was so deeply eroded that the horses had to step carefully.
The scenery was well worth it! My son even managed to fall asleep on the horse, enjoying a peaceful nap until we reached the stables. He woke up with a smile, thrilled by his first horseback adventure and enchanted by his gentle new friend. The trail may look fine in photos, but a few sections were slippery enough that our horses had to tread slowly to avoid slipping.
Near the end of our ride, we chatted with a friendly Costa Rican couple who were dreaming of a trip to Japan, which had to be postponed due to COVID-19. Though Costa Rica has opened up for tourism, travel to Japan remains uncertain. I shared some travel tips and favorite spots, hoping they’ll make it there soon.
After wrapping up our ride, we started the journey toward Monteverde. Though Monteverde and La Fortuna look close on a map, the drive is close to three hours, as you need to circle around the mountain. Be prepared for winding roads and check your gas tank—fuel stations can be scarce on this route. The road conditions can also worsen with rain, so keeping an eye on the weather is a good idea.
We arrived at Suites & Villas Calathea Monteverde in Monteverde as planned, just before sunset. Despite its small size, Monteverde is a hub for eco-tourism, and there are plenty of restaurant options. We initially aimed for San Lucas, conveniently near our hotel, but it was fully booked, so we opted for Sabor Tico.
And that wraps up today’s adventure! Tomorrow, we’re off to explore the famous cloud forest.
