Costa Rican Road Trip Episode 6: Navigating Rivers and Rough Roads to Reach Remote Drake Bay
Today, we picked up a giant loaf of fresh bread from a local bakery to keep us fueled for the journey ahead and made the five-hour trek to Drake Bay, one of Costa Rica's most remote and breathtaking destinations, nestled on the Osa Peninsula.
This hidden paradise is famous for its pristine beaches, dense rainforests, and extraordinary biodiversity. Arriving here feels like stepping into another world, where nature takes center stage in all its untouched beauty. Drake Bay’s location close to Corcovado National Park, one of the planet’s most biodiverse places, makes it even more special. Here, visitors can spot scarlet macaws, monkeys, tapirs, and countless other species in their natural habitat. Nearby, Caño Island Biological Reserve offers a haven for snorkelers and divers eager to explore coral reefs alive with colorful marine life.
Getting to Drake Bay, however, is no easy feat. It’s famously difficult to reach, which preserves its wild, untouched charm. Many travelers choose to fly in or take a boat from nearby towns, but we opted to drive—a choice that proved adventurous and somewhat nerve-wracking. The initial stretch from Los Sueños to Palmar Norte in Puntarenas Province was smooth.
Our first unexpected twist came in the town of Sierpe. The hotel operator had mentioned we could leave our car at a local restaurant and take a boat to Drake Bay for $160 round trip. However, facing the wait times and cost, we thought, “Why not just drive?” The hotel operator warned it would take several hours, but the map showed Drake Bay close by, so we figured we’d give it a shot.
Things quickly took a strange turn in Sierpe, where we seemed to hit a dead end. We found a small plaza near the town center, but all the roads circled back to where we’d started. It turns out, we needed to cross the river—using a car ferry! When we finally found it, I could hardly believe my eyes; it looked more like a floating dock than a proper ferry. The place was deserted, and after a 10-minute wait, someone finally walked by. As luck would have it, he was the ferry operator! For a fee of $5-$10, he offered to take us across. Skeptical but out of options, we boarded the “ferry,” wondering if our car would sink or if we’d even be able to make the return trip. To my relief, the car ferry worked! It floated, moved, and delivered us safely to the other side.
But crossing the river was only the start of the real adventure. Once on the other side, I began to see why so many people advised against driving. The road was flooded in several areas, despite it being the dry season. With no way to gauge the water’s depth, I often waited for a local driver to pass, carefully watching and following their exact path. Some drivers even waded in with sticks to check the depth! Had it rained recently, the road would likely have been impassable, and we’d have had no choice but to turn back.
After what felt like countless waterlogged patches and a slow crawl down the rugged road, we finally reached the small town near Drake Bay. But our journey wasn’t quite over. I called the hotel operator, who advised us to leave our car here since the hotel wasn’t accessible by road. We hopped onto a boat for the final 30-minute ride, which offered some welcome relaxation after the challenging drive.
We stayed at Drake Bay Wilderness Resort, which offers an all-inclusive package. For us, the 3-night package included all meals, laundry service, kayak use, COVID-19 tests, round-trip transport from Drake Bay or the Drake Bay Airport, two half-day guided tours, and all taxes—at a rate of $926 per adult, with children free. At first glance, the price might seem high for Costa Rica, but I got an additional 20% discount for paying in cash, bringing our total for four people to under $1,500.
The resort itself exceeded expectations. The staff was friendly, and the facilities were exceptionally clean given the remote location. They also offered a surprisingly good selection of food and drinks. And perhaps most importantly, the included tours provided rare access to well-protected natural areas, giving us a truly unique chance to explore Costa Rica’s untouched wilderness. Overall, I’d say the experience was worth every penny.
Tomorrow, our exploration of the jungle begins in this hidden paradise. All the bumps, rivers, and surprises were worth it to reach this magical place where adventure awaits at every turn.
