Southern African Journey Log 7: Thundering Falls and Tribal Drums in the Heart of Zimbabwe
Despite staying up late the previous night, our kids were bursting with energy early in the morning. We enjoyed an early breakfast at the hotel to prepare for an exciting helicopter tour over the Zambezi River and Victoria Falls.
Seeing the river and falls from above, with rainbows dancing in the mist, was incredible. But what truly thrilled us was flying through the gorges—a dramatic, cinematic experience that felt straight out of a movie. It was my kids’ first helicopter ride, and while my son loved the sensation of hovering, my daughter found it so soothing that she napped through it.
We then strolled through downtown Livingstone in Zambia. The alleys, lined with bustling souvenir stalls, had a certain raw charm. Chatting with artists about their lives and craft added depth to our visit. While the small museum we planned to visit was closed, we didn’t mind. Instead, we bought a few souvenirs and enjoyed a local meal. Downtown Livingstone may lack polish, but its authentic stories make it far more engaging than a resort.
We then entered Zimbabwe on foot. Zimbabwe, a landlocked gem in Southern Africa, is rich in history, cultural diversity, and natural beauty. Its story spans ancient civilizations, such as the Kingdom of Great Zimbabwe, whose remarkable stone structures still awe visitors today, and its more modern independence in 1980. Despite past economic and political struggles, the nation is famed for its breathtaking attractions like Victoria Falls, Hwange National Park, and the Eastern Highlands. Agriculture, mining, and tourism form the backbone of Zimbabwe's economy, while its vibrant culture continues to captivate visitors.
Crossing the border from Zambia to Zimbabwe was straightforward. Since taxis aren’t allowed to cross, we wheeled our suitcases to the immigration post, a modest building that processed us in about 15 minutes. On the Zimbabwean side, locals immediately approached us, offering bundles of old Zimbabwean dollar bills. These once-carried denominations in millions, billions, and trillions, relics of the country’s hyperinflation era. We bought some as souvenirs—a stark reminder of how economic policies can collapse a nation’s currency.
Our hotel in Zimbabwe, Lokuthula, was booked last-minute, so it wasn’t perfect, but it was comfortable. Yet, mosquitoes were abundant—an inevitability in this warm, water-rich region. We loaded up on mosquito repellent and took malaria pills for our kids, who hadn’t been vaccinated. On the positive side, like many hotels in this area, animals roamed freely on the property, and we spotted warthogs, deer, and monkeys, much to the delight of our kids.
We ended the day with a visit to Victoria Falls, known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya—"The Smoke That Thunders." This majestic waterfall spans 1.7 kilometers and plunges over 100 meters into the Zambezi Gorge, creating a mist visible from miles away. Trails on the Zimbabwean side offered easy, family-friendly hiking and stunning views of the falls, even in a year of reduced water flow. The sound of thundering water drowned out our conversations, while the spray refreshed us on a warm day. Watching the sunset over the falls was an unforgettable experience.
Dinner at the Boma Drum Dinner was a sensory feast. This cultural event blends local flavors with dynamic entertainment. We tried warthog steak, which was tender and flavorful, and fried mopane worms, which were gummy and rich in protein—a sustainable delicacy across Southern Africa. The evening culminated in an interactive drumming session, where guests were handed drums to join in. Our kids had their faces painted and danced with the crowd, making it a lively, joyous finale to our day.
