Southern African Journey Log 3: Dust Roads, Lion Codes, and Sunset Modes
We woke up early and enjoyed another relaxing breakfast to start our day. With some time to spare before checking out, we strolled over to Waterworld. While the water activities were closed for the season, the Stimela Train, which winds its way through the wetlands, was still running, and the playgrounds provided plenty of fun for our toddlers.
After checking out around 11 a.m., we set off for Madikwe Game Reserve, a private sanctuary established in 1991 through an innovative partnership between local communities, private lodges, and the South African government. While it is technically public in ownership, access to Madikwe is exclusive to guests staying at its private lodges, ensuring a tranquil and intimate experience. Nestled in a malaria-free zone, it’s a perfect destination for families and travelers seeking a safe and luxurious safari adventure.
The drive to Madikwe, roughly 140 km from Sun City, was an adventure in itself. The road transformed from paved highways to red dirt trails, with swirling dust from passing cars obscuring our visibility and forcing us to drive cautiously. Though our SUV handled the terrain well, the journey still took over three hours. By the time we arrived, it was past 2 PM.
For the next few days, we’re staying at Etali Safari Lodge, a gem in the Madikwe Game Reserve. This eco-friendly, luxurious lodge blends modern comforts with the untamed beauty of the African wilderness. Featuring private suites with plunge pools, gourmet meals made with locally sourced ingredients, and tranquil spa treatments, Etali promises both adventure and relaxation. A highlight is the waterhole visible from the lodge, where wildlife often gathers, offering breathtaking views even without stepping out for a game drive.
This exclusivity is a hallmark of private safaris, which contrast sharply with public safaris like those in Pilanesberg National Park. While public safaris offer open access and are more budget-friendly, private safaris prioritize personalized experiences. With fewer vehicles, access to off-road trails, and extended time at sightings, private safaris allow for a deeper connection to the wilderness. The level of expertise provided by guides and trackers in private reserves enhances the experience, offering insights into wildlife behavior and conservation efforts. Though pricier, private safaris are worth the investment for the exclusivity, intimacy, and sustainability they provide.
After a quick, late lunch, we set off on the afternoon game drive. I was initially a bit confused about the term too, but a game drive is not hunting. It’s a guided excursion focused entirely on observing and appreciating wildlife in its natural habitat. The word "game" here refers to wild animals commonly seen during a safari, while "drive" simply describes the vehicle-based nature of the tourxperience and learn about animals in a respectful and non-intrusive manner, not to hunt or chase them. Like many upscale lodges in South Africa, Etali Safari Lodge offers an all-inclusive package, providing accommodations that include three meals, snacks, and three guided game drives per day.
Our open safari truck featured a driver and a guide who worked together to spot animals. While we mostly stayed on designated roads, the guides occasionally ventured off-road for closer views of the animals. They tracked wildlife without relying on recorded locations or devices, ensuring sensitive information wasn’t misused by poachers.
The afternoon drive introduced us to a wide range of animals, but the lions stood out. Contrary to their cinematic image of roaring hunters, these lions exuded a quiet power, moving deliberately and conserving energy. Occasionally, they claimed the road as their own, forcing us to pause and admire their effortless majesty.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, we stopped in the open savanna to soak in the stunning sunset. The temperature dropped sharply, so I layered up with a windbreaker from my backpack. Afterward, the game drive continued under the starlit sky, with flashlights illuminating the nocturnal world around us.
Tomorrow, we’ll wake early for a morning game drive, eager to uncover more of Madikwe’s secrets. For now, the serenity of Etali Safari Lodge and the glittering night sky guarantee a restful sleep, setting the stage for another day of unforgettable experiences.
