Kyushu Quest Chapter 7: A Day in Deeper Aso
As promised, we ventured deeper into the heart of Aso today.
Our morning began with a visit to Aso Farm Land, a unique wellness-themed park nestled in the stunning landscapes of Aso. This sprawling facility offers everything from hands-on activities to health-conscious dining options and even quirky dome-shaped accommodations, some adorned with Kumamon designs. While we didn’t stay overnight or explore the outdoor wellness areas, our kids were thrilled to tackle the Vitality Challenge Hall, an indoor athletic field filled with exciting obstacle courses and activities. It was a delightful way to start the day—competitive, fun, and physically engaging. And yes, trying to beat your kids' scores? A humbling experience, to say the least!
The kids also tried their hand at indoor fishing, with some surprising results. My daughter caught a few goldfish, while my son landed a big carp! It’s catch-and-release only, so no souvenirs from this adventure, but the joy of the moment was reward enough.
A Sweet Stop at Aso Milk Factory
Driving north, we made a pit stop at Aso Milk Factory, a fantastic destination for both shopping and dining. Beyond its delightful dairy products, the factory serves up incredible sweets and fresh produce. My highlight? The raw sweet corn—crisp, juicy, and so naturally sweet that cooking seemed unnecessary. It was unlike any corn I’ve ever tasted, and I couldn’t resist buying a bundle to take along.
Immersing in Kurokawa Onsen’s Charm
An hour’s drive later, we reached Kurokawa Onsen, a quintessential Japanese hot spring town. With over 25 traditional ryokans and their renowned open-air baths, the town exudes an old-world charm that feels like stepping back in time. To fully experience the onsen culture, we purchased the Onsen-Hopping Pass (Nyūyoku Tegata), which allowed us to visit three different baths.
Our first stop was Noshiyu（のし湯）. Nestled in a serene garden setting, the rotenburo (open-air bath) here was an absolute dream, especially in the rain. The glistening moss and soft sounds of raindrops and frogs created an atmosphere of pure tranquility. The bath was blissfully quiet, allowing us to immerse ourselves in the moment fully. Outside, we spotted onsen tamago—eggs slow-cooked in hot spring water—adding a quaint touch to the experience.
After a leisurely stroll through the charming streets, we arrived at Yumotoso Ryokan（湯元荘）, which was slightly more crowded. Despite the wait, the riverside rotenburo offered stunning views of flowing water and green maple leaves (called ao momiji in Japanese). While beautiful, the bustling ambiance made this a shorter visit for us, as we prefer quieter baths.
Our final onsen for the day was at Wakaba Ryokan（わかば旅館）. By this point, we were starting to feel the effects of all the hot water, so we kept our stay brief. Of the three, Noshiyu remained our favorite for its unparalleled serenity and enchanting garden setting.
A Luxurious Stay at Yukyo no Hibiki Yusai
For the night, we checked into Yukyo no Hibiki Yusai（湯峡の響き 優彩）, a refined ryokan offering an exceptional blend of comfort and culinary delight. The spacious rooms, impeccable service, and buffet dining impressed us all. While buffets can sometimes compromise quality, this one struck a perfect balance, satisfying both kids and adults with its variety and freshness. The spacious dining area was another plus, eliminating the stress of searching for a table.
Despite a minor hiccup—a fire alarm glitch that lasted nearly an hour—our stay was wonderful. The overall experience, from the luxurious amenities to the attentive service, far outweighed this small inconvenience. If you’re planning a visit to Kurokawa Onsen, this ryokan comes highly recommended.
Today’s journey was a perfect mix of adventure, relaxation, and cultural immersion. From the playful energy of Aso Farm Land to the serene baths of Kurokawa Onsen, each stop offered a unique facet of the Aso region. Tomorrow, we continue to explore what Kyushu has to offer—stay tuned!
